1) System Strategy (the “why”)
Recommended long-term split
- Z-Wave switches/dimmers = your consistent “core lighting” standard (reliable, local, mesh-friendly).
- Zigbee sensors = motion/contact/leak/temperature (cheap, long battery, easy to expand).
- Wi-Fi devices = TVs, some plugs, cameras (keep Wi-Fi count reasonable).
Big rule to avoid headaches
- If you use smart bulbs on a wall circuit, don’t let people cut their power with a dumb switch.
- Use switches for “main overhead lights.” Use bulbs for “accent/scene lighting.”
Goal: clean automations + easy maintenance + predictable behavior (no “why is this offline?” surprises).
Quick Next Steps (today)
Tip: keep hardware pairing close to the coordinator/stick, then move devices to their final locations.
2) Pick One Switch Brand (recommended)
Standardize on: Z-Wave switches/dimmers
Primary Recommendation (value + HA friendly)
- Zooz (Z-Wave) for most rooms (solid reliability, lots of configuration options, good price/performance).
Premium Alternatives
- Inovelli (Z-Wave) if you want LED notifications + advanced scene controls (higher cost).
- Lutron Caseta if you want “never breaks” reliability (requires Lutron hub; higher cost; extremely stable).
Why switches first?
- Guests can use the wall switch normally.
- Less “bulb went offline” drama.
- One switch controls multiple bulbs on a circuit.
3) Motion Built Into Switches — Should You Buy Them?
Short answer Use them selectively (utility rooms), not as your main sensor strategy.
Good places for motion switches
- Hallways
- Closets / pantries
- Guest bathrooms (simple auto-on)
- Laundry / mud room
Not ideal places
- Living rooms / studios (people sit still)
- Bedrooms
- Master bath (showers + sitting still)
Built-in motion is typically PIR and wall-mounted (limited angle). For “true presence,” separate sensors (or mmWave later) are better.
4) Shopping List (copy/paste friendly)
This is an opinionated “consistent ecosystem” cart: Z-Wave for switches, Zigbee for sensors.
| Category | Recommended Models (choose one line per need) | Where / Why | Qty | Est. Unit $ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zigbee coordinator | SONOFF Zigbee Dongle Plus MG24 (you already have it) | Sensors + bulbs + Zigbee mesh | $0 (owned) | |
| Z-Wave controller | Your Z-Wave USB stick (Zooz/Aeotec class) (you already have it) | Switches + locks + sirens (local Z-Wave mesh) | $0 (owned) | |
| Switch (On/Off) | Zooz Z-Wave on/off switch (pick Zooz line consistently) | Bathrooms, closets, garage, simple overhead lights | $35–$45 | |
| Dimmer | Zooz Z-Wave dimmer (pick Zooz line consistently) | Living areas + studio dimming; scenes + comfort | $40–$55 | |
| Zigbee contact sensor | Sonoff SNZB-04 or Aqara Door/Window | Doors/windows; entry alerts; “door opens → lights” | $10–$20 | |
| Zigbee motion sensor | Budget: Sonoff SNZB-03 • Better: Aqara P1 | Bathroom + hallway + closet automation | $12–$25 | |
| Zigbee repeater | Zigbee smart plug (any reputable Zigbee plug) OR a couple Zigbee bulbs | Strengthens Zigbee mesh for sensors (recommended) | $12–$25 | |
| Bathroom fan/humidity | Zigbee temp/humidity sensor (optional but awesome) | Auto fan control based on humidity rise/fall | $12–$25 | |
| Siren (optional) | Z-Wave indoor siren (pick a Z-Wave model for local control) | Alarm alerts; “Away mode” deterrent | $35–$70 | |
| Estimated Total (editable) | $— | |||
The unit prices above are “planning numbers.” Your real totals depend on sales, bundles, and how many circuits you convert.
5) Dimmer Flicker — Bulb Compatibility Plan
Flicker is usually the LED bulb driver, not the dimmer itself.
What to buy (studio-friendly approach)
- Use quality dimmable LEDs for overhead lights.
- Prefer “flicker-free” / “dimmable” packaging and reputable brands (Philips/GE/Cree class).
Settings / tuning
- In the dimmer settings, set a minimum brightness floor (example: 20–30%) to eliminate low-end flicker.
- If you have only 1–2 bulbs on the circuit, consider adding bulbs or upgrading to better LED drivers.
Quick test
100% no flicker = bulb driver low-end problem
50% flicker starts below this = set dimmer min brightness higher
50% flicker starts below this = set dimmer min brightness higher
6) Studio Dashboard Layout (recommended sections)
Keep Studio as your “control room” panel with fast toggles and a couple scene buttons.
Section layout
| Section | Cards to add | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| TV | Tile card for media_player.studio_tv + volume (if available) |
Primary manual control; shows state (on/idle/off) |
| Lighting | Tiles for: Studio overhead dimmer, desk lamp, accent lights | Put the most-used toggles on top |
| Scenes | Buttons: “Recording”, “Movie”, “All Off”, “Bright” | Start with 2 scenes now; expand later |
| Status | Badges: Zigbee status, internet status, door sensors (later) | Quick glance health check |
Studio scenes starter set
- Recording: overhead 30–40% + accent on + TV off
- Movie: overhead off + accent low + TV on
- All Off: everything off
- Bright: overhead 100%
7) Sensor Placement Map (what goes where)
Contact sensors (doors/windows)
- Mount sensor body on frame, magnet on door, near the top third.
- If you see “double triggers,” it’s usually door flex/bounce—try hinge-side placement or slightly offset magnet alignment.
Motion sensors (when you get them)
- Bathroom: corner ceiling-ish aimed at entry area (avoid shower steam path).
- Hallway: mid-hall aimed along the hall, not at windows/vents.
- Closet/pantry: aim at doorway; short timeout.
Bathroom automation approach (your current “door sensor only” plan)
- Door opens → light ON
- Door opens again → light OFF (with a minimum-on-time condition, e.g., 60 seconds)
- Optional fail-safe: if light has been on 30–60 minutes, turn it off
Debounce tip
If door bounce triggers twice, add an automation trigger that requires the state to be stable for 1–2 seconds (or use a condition that blocks re-triggering within 2 seconds).
If door bounce triggers twice, add an automation trigger that requires the state to be stable for 1–2 seconds (or use a condition that blocks re-triggering within 2 seconds).
8) Alarm / Security Layout (simple, scalable)
Start with alerts + lighting, then add siren and “modes” once you have more sensors.
Phase 1 — “Awareness” (no siren yet)
- Entry doors (contacts) → phone notification at night
- Door opens → turn on selected lights
- Garage/entry open too long → notify
Phase 2 — “Alarm modes”
- Create modes: Home, Away, Night
- Away: any entry opens → alert + lights + optional siren
- Night: perimeter doors trigger alerts, interior motion can be ignored (later)
Recommended “first alarm” device list
- 3–6 contact sensors (doors + key windows)
- 2–4 motion sensors (hallway + living areas)
- 1 siren (optional)
- 1 keypad or dashboard tablet (optional later)
9) Budget + Phased Rollout (so you don’t overspend)
| Phase | What to do | Typical Spend |
|---|---|---|
| Phase 0 You’re here |
Zigbee + Z-Wave installed; start dashboards; pair first sensors | $0–$60 (small accessories like USB extension) |
| Phase 1 Studio + bathroom |
Standardize on your Z-Wave switch brand; convert:
|
$150–$350 |
| Phase 2 Core living areas |
Convert kitchen/living/entry circuits; add repeaters (Zigbee plugs/bulbs) to strengthen sensor mesh. | $300–$700 |
| Phase 3 Bedrooms + security |
Bedroom dimmers + lamp control; build “Away/Night” alarm logic; optional siren. | $300–$900 |
Buying rule: Switches first for primary lighting. Bulbs for accent/scene lighting. Sensors to automate the rooms you actually use daily.
10) Use this on a website / download it
Save this file as ha-plan.html and open it in any browser. If you want it on your site, upload it like any HTML page.
Tip: Click Print / Save as PDF above to generate a clean printable copy.